Thursday, June 16, 2005

THOSE THAT STAYED BEHIND

Anglo-Indians, a confusing identity
By Tom Norton.

In Mumbai the monsoon has been promising to arrive for the last two
weeks and cool everything down, but it still hasn't. The air is hot,
dry and thirty seven degrees, and it makes every piece of clothing wet
where it touches skin.

'Would you like me to wear a shirt?' Father Lane-Smith asks. 'I hope
this doesn't offend you?' He's sitting in a cane chair in the kitchen
of his apartment, out the window is a view of the Taj Mahal Hotel. A
fan spins lazily over his head and his chest is pale, sweaty and
covered in grey hair.

His mother was of mixed race and his father British. 'My mother,
Grandmother and everyone on that side of the family were dark, they
spoke the native language. I only learned this later because they
never spoke it in my presence. Maybe that was because they were
ashamed of their dark blood. I'm not, I'm a mixture of ten races, and
that's fine, that's what I am.'

The Father is a solid man with a white beard that could quite easily
make you mistake him for Santa Clause on vacation.

'The British Raj,' he says, 'Did us a great disservice by reserving
jobs for whites (before India's independence). We had no need for
education. Friends of mine left school and stepped into high ranking
positions in the government, in the police, postal service and others.
So while Indians were getting educated we were getting dumber. I was
lucky, my mother a school teacher. My father was British so he had no
need for education. I received all my schooling from my mother.'

The term Anglo-Indian (AI) comes from the 17th and 18th Century when
English settlers would take Indian wives, but it was the Portuguese
who first came to India and started blending the races in as early as
the 15th Century, Danish, French and British were to follow,
consequently many Indians are of a mixed heritage. If the children of
Europeans were white in appearance they were pushed into the upper
echelons of power, they were the Anglo-Indians at the top of caste
system. The term Anglo-Indian now refers to minority that stayed
behind.

'Though I consider myself a native of India, I still get mistaken for
a foreigner. Walking home I am stopped on street by people trying to
invite me to all the places that a tourist would go.' He laughs to
himself. 'They soon realise they've got the wrong guy when I answer in
Hindi.'

In 1947 he was undertaking his priesthood training in Delhi when India
gained its independence. 'It was strange to have the rules suddenly
changed on you, before being a white meant that no one would do harm
to you. It was a terrible fear factor beaten into people by the police
who were run by whites.'

India's independence naturally created a massive paradigm shift and
many AIs feel insecure in their situation which caused a mass exodus.
Not all of them that stayed agree that the job situation has improved,
administrative the defence services still hold a majority of
Anglo-Indians in high positions. A similar comparison can be seen with
people leaving South Africa before the end of the apatite.

'It's a very frustrating identity for people like me. I know a case of
two brothers, who had the same parents and live on the same street,
but one calls himself a Madrasi and other says he's a Britishier. It's
a confusing to be part of a culture that has moved on.'

Multiculturalism is a term used in the west to describe the benefits
of immigration, many post AIs are now living in America, Australia,
Canada, New Zealand, and the UK, consider themselves
Indian-Australians, Indian-Canadians, etc, but multiculturalism has
been occurring in India since the before the days of the British Raj.
Father Lane-Smith's brothers and sisters left during independence
because they didn't feel safe. 'It was a natural fear. Things were
changing under their feet. But Gandhi did things that needed to occur.
India is a much better place now.'

In contrast, youth ideology in Mumbai can be seen to consider Gandhi's
ideals as outdated and a little backward, though they still hold
strong regard for his views on non-violence. With the boom of IT and
call-centre industries, they have created a new generation of young up
coming Indians (Mumbai-ites) who are being offered an opportunity for
wealth. The west offers them a means to climb up that old social
hierarchy which still exists despite Gandhi's best efforts and
consequently he can be seen as quite anti-industry because of the
foreign businesses, that might considered to be taking advantage of
India's cheap labour force, but offer the youth opportunities for
success. To them, the west is seductive, attractive and inspirational.

'Some people are partially Indian and love to be Indian, but others
who are very Indian, in blood, disclaim it entirely and would rather
not be Indian. I prefer to call myself Indian, but if you put me
against the ropes I would have to admit I am Anglo-Indian.'

As well as being a Jesuit priest, Father Lane-Smith is a professor of
Mass Com for film and Television, he studied in Canada and suggested,
'They too should give their country back to the Indians.' So being a
western appearing man who speaks Hindi he is often being used by
directors in Bollywood films. His last role was in a film titled
'Black,' where he played an English priest. When asked if he felt
typecast, he laughed and answered, 'Aren't we all by our appearance?'

Tuesday, June 14, 2005

Hey From Bombay

Bombay or Mumbai is weird city, the name you use depends on which side
of the religious fence you sit on. I like calling Bombai or Mumbay.

It's weird living here though, not like my previous travels through
Asia because i never spent this amount of time in the one spot. But
let me tell you about the culture shock? The one that everyone whose
been to India tries to prepare you for? With the suffering, the people
dying on the street in piles of boney bodies, the lepers, the beggars,
the etc, the etc... you know the one what people say, when you go
there you'll have a spiritual experience from seeing masses of people
suffering for no other reason than being poor and you'll be
spiritual-ised because there's no way you can help them, there's just
too many of the buggers you just have to learn to deal with
it.

I don't think so! I've suffered more! Well, maybe not, but don't get
me wrong some of best freinds are people.

But the culture shock I'm experiencing is from being an Aussie. People
are constantly talking to me about the cricket! I've had to start
reading one article a fortnight about the sport so i can contribute to
their bloody conversations, but i can't bring myself to read or learn
anymore than necessary.

But that's not it. The culture shock is this...

Being an Aussie i naturally reject authority, it may be from the
flow-over of the convict era with our generations of rejecting our
colonial oppressors, or you could call it our socially inbuilt
tall-poppy syndrome, whatever, i don't care, i know i don't like
authority and there's thousands of others like me back home that feel
the same way.

So staying in the Marriott, I constantly have these little men coming
up to me
they grin up at me, asking, 'How can I be helping your service, sir?'

'What?'

'Is there anything you will be needing? Another gin and tonic, perhaps sir?

Naturally I've grown accustom to the free drinks. Admittedly, that's
pretty lush. But i feel weird telling the guys, who are actually
begging for it, what to do.

Sandy goes to work at 9am and doesn't get back til 7 at night and
because i was sick when i first got here I spent my first week in bed,
food poisoned by my servants i might add, i didn't get out much in
that first week or two. I even had a doctor visit me in my room.

It was about 1am in the morning, outside out hotel room it was 33
degrees and my body was freezing. I'd put all my clothes on and still
couldn't get warm. Sandy was giving me weird looks, she decided to
make the call even though i was doing my best to persuade her that i
would get over it.

We'd been waiting for about two hours for the doc to show up, i
decided to complain to the hotel by calling the front desk and deal
with it in the morning. but no sooner i had i hung up the phone was
our door bell ringing.

'You called for a doctor?' she asked.

I'm already feeling guilty about complaining before she begans to tell
me why she's late. Another guest had to rushed to hospital.
'You have food poisoning,' she says, checking me out. 'Your tempreture
is high, but there is no reason to worry.'
Then she gets a call from the front desk.
Sorry about that.' i say trying to look innocent and sweaty.
'No problem.' She says. 'I'm going to have to give you an injection
to take away your fevour.'
I roll up my sleave.
'No, sir. This one has to go into your behind.'
The needles like a sword and I know she's grinning like a demon as she
penetrates my arse.

Now though, I've been out heaps and working on that documentary idea,
i might have told you about it, not the Mockumentary, this ones a
travel one with sort of short off the beaten track stories. I've been
working on a 'How to be a Bollywood Extra' story.

I've been interviewing all kinds of different people who are involved
in the recruitment of western tourists/backpackers.

Yesterday, i went to chat with this old Jesuit priest, he's about 70+
and been doing mission work here all his life. He's constantly being
used as an extra in movies and he knows a lot of the horror stories
about people (westerners) being exploited. That and he breeds snakes.

So i got off the topic with him a fair bit and he told me what he
thought and knew about the British rule. 'I'm one of the few who
stayed behind,' he said.

He was even here when Ghandi was shot in Delhi, 1948. So as I said,
he's an old guy and we got off the topic, but very likable and he gave
some great ideas, say if i ever manage to get some funding from an
Aus. Arts Council grant, I'd like to make that doco, 'The ones that
stayed behind', a series on different messed up countries (mostly
under British rule - That's your fault Steve!) where the whiteys have
fled except for a few.

I invited him out for a beer, but he doesn't drink and his diet, 'cos
he's old, is mostly mashed up stuff. 'That's gotta suck,' I told him.
'Yes,' He agreed, 'But i'm going to live to 105.'
I'm going back to chat with him next week.

Anyway, the other doco is going good, i'm going to be following around
a recruiter next week as they scout for westerners. Hopefully i can
get some before/after interviews with them.

Anyway I'll leave it there .